Apparently he never made it to the Central Coast in spring! The prevailing northwest winds create a chill that goes straight to the bone. Wind makes me cranky. Cold northwest winds make me really cranky! I love the way spring looks but loathe the way it feels – that is until I go to the local Farmers’ Market.
Suddenly, just like the rolling hills after Winter’s rains, the local Farmers’ Market turns green. Spring has arrived! No other season’s entrance is quite as dramatic as Spring’s debut at Farmers’ Market. Seemingly overnight, the availability at the market goes from winter squash, beets and citrus to a plethora of amazing produce. Green garlic, fava beans, pea shoots, English shelling peas and the list goes on. This happy sight is just what is needed to bring me out of my spring wind funk. With all that beautiful produce I’m inspired to spend more time in the kitchen where I know I’ll be safe and warm.
Devon prepared an “Ode to Spring” dinner in celebration of the season: Cucumber Mint cocktails, warm fava bean hummus with local Sheep’s milk feta and oil cured olives, puree of fennel soup, salmon with farro, black rice, green garlic, pea shoots and tangerine. All served with a gratitude for the bounty of Spring and enjoyed with good friends and lots of laughter.
In fact, I think it warmed my soul enough to allow me to tough it out until the spring winds die down.
Fava Bean Purée with Oil-Cured Olives, Feta, and Garlic Toasts adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques, by Suzanne Goin
1 Baguette
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
2-1/2 pounds fava beans in the pod (or 2-1/2 cups shucked)
1 small sprig rosemary
1 chile de arbol, crumbled or crushed red chile flakes
1/2 lemon, for juicing
1/2 cup pitted oil-cured black olives sliced in half. If you can’t find these, substitute kalamatas
1/4 cup sliced flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/4 pound good quality feta cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 375 degrees
Cut baguette on the diagonal into twelve 1/4-inch-thick slices. Brush both sides of each slice generously with olive oil (about 1/4 cup in all). Arrange the slices on a baking sheet and toast them in the over 10 to 12 minutes, until golden crispy, but still tender in the center. While the toasts are warm, rub them with one of the garlic cloves.
Mince the remaining garlic clove.
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, remove the beans from their pods.
Blanch the beans for about 2 minutes in the boiling water. Drain the beans in a colander, cool them in the ice water, and them slip them out of their pale green shells with your fingers.
Heat a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the remaining 3/4 cup olive oil, the rosemary sprig, and the chile. Let them sizzle in the oil a minute or two, then stir in the minced garlic. Let them sizzle in the oil a minute or two, then stir in the minced garlic. Let it sizzle for a minute and stir in the fava beans, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and some freshly ground pepper. Simmer the beans 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they're tender (the exact time will depend on the starchiness of the favas). Strain the beans, reserving the oil. Discard the rosemary and chile.
Transfer the beans into a food processor and purée them. With the motor running, pour in half the reserved oil to taste. Squeeze in some lemon juice, and taste for seasoning. (The amount of oil you will need depends on the starchiness of the beans.)
In a small bowl, toss the olives and parsley with a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Crumble in the feta, tossing gently to combine.
Spoon the warm fava bean purée onto a platter. Place the grilled toasts off to one side, and scatter the feta-olive salad over the purée.
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