One of these days we’ll figure out how to do captions and get all the fonts the same size. The other key thing we need to remember to do is to take a photo of the finished dish. By the time the cooking is done, we’re thinking about a glass of wine and we’d rather dig in than dig out the camera. Such is the case with the following recipe.
We’re noticing a trend beginning to emerge with Holy Mole and that’s a distinct proliferation of Latin inspired dishes. It must have something to do with the unrelenting fog here on the Central Coast that has plagued us this summer. So, we tend to take refuge in our food. The sunny colors of citrus, smoked paprika and dried chiles substitute for absent sunsets. A little heat on our tongues transports us to balmier locales.
Last night we attended a tenth anniversary party for some old friends and basked in warmth of a different kind.
As we drove up the coastal valley to the couple’s hilltop ranch, I wondered, “Who will I know?”
Later, as I perused the buffet table heaped with offerings made with love and well wishes I realized it didn’t matter. That evening I was reminded again and again of the unifying force of cooking as new friendships were forged through common ground. Kinship with strangers was quickly established: A playful debate over the proper temperature for a new york strip, the magical properties of true Chimayo chile, an oral recipe swap by firelight, ferreting out the secret ingredient in a perfect chocolate chip cookie.
When the full moon rose and the campfire faded we prepared to leave. Nearby, a new mother juggled infant twins. As we drove down back down the dusty road I wished for these babies that they are graced in life by friends who celebrate the warmth of these little moments.
These carnitas are warming and satisfying and if you can talk your partner into washing the dutch oven when it’s time to do the dishes you should consider yourself lucky. You’ll see in the photo an overnight soak might be in order. Fortunately, the results are well worth the dirty pan.
I’ve been making the accompanying Avocado-Tomatillo salsa all summer long. Its sunny zip compliments any taco perfectly and the leftovers are wonderful on eggs the next morning.
Tacos of Carnitas Roasted with Orange, Milk, and Pepper
Adapted from a recipe by Deborah Schneider
Amor y Tacos: Modern Mexican Tacos, Margaritas, and Antojitos
Schneider writes, “Pork cooked this way is moist and succulent, sweet from the natural caramelization of the milk, with the slightest hint of orange and black pepper. For an over-the-top garnish, crumble chicharrón (fried pork skin) on the soft roast meat for a porky, crunchy textural contrast.”
Serve the carnitas with warm corn tortillas, a raw tomatillo avocado salsa, and extra onions and cilantro if desired.
Serves 6
3 pounds boneless pork shoulder (butt) or boneless country pork ribs
1 tablespoon peanut oil, olive oil or lard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 orange, well washed, cut in half
1 cup whole milk
About 2 cups water
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
Warm corn tortillas
Tomatillo-Avocado salsa, recipe follows
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Cut the pork into 6 or 8 pieces. Heat oil or melt the lard in a heavy Dutch oven just large enough to hold the meat in one layer. Brown the meat on all sides and season with salt. If needed, brown the meat in batches, removing to a bowl as you rotate all the pieces in. Don’t overcrowd or the meat will steam instead of brown.
3. Squeeze the orange over the meat and toss the rind into the pan. Pour the milk over the meat and add enough water to almost cover the meat. Sprinkle with pepper. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake for about 2 hours, until the meat is fork-tender.
4. To finish, uncover the meat and break into into largish pieces. Remove the orange rind and discard. (note: I usually spoon some of the liquid off at this point if there’s a large quantity left in the pan) Roast, uncovered, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 20 minutes, turning the meat with tongs occasionally to encourage even browning. Cook until the meat is brown and crisp on the edges.
5. To assemble the tacos, fill a warm tortilla with shredded pork. Top with avocado tomatillo salsa, a little of the chicharrón if using, and finish with generous amounts of onion and cilantro.
Tomatillo Avocado Salsa
10-12 large bright green tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed well, chopped.
½ small red onion, finely chopped
1 large bunch cilantro, leaves chopped (about a cup’s worth after chopping)
2-3 large, ripe Hass avocados, chopped
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and minced. (or more to taste)
Juice of one lime
1 tsp salt
Mix all ingredients gently in a large bowl. The salsa can be made a couple of hours in advance. Refrigerate and allow to return to room temperature before serving.
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