Wednesday, July 14, 2010

From Mac 'n Cheese to Haute Cuisine



As a young child, my daughter Hayley was like most kids, a picky eater. Her repertoire consisted of macaroni and cheese (preferably the cartoon shaped pasta out of a box), broccoli (thank god!), pasta with butter (no parmesan!), scrambled eggs and pizza – no sauce. I was a very accommodating cook who had suffered through the "eat what's put in front of you" strong arm feeding style of my parents. Hayley's pediatrician assured me that she was getting plenty of protein and with the help of Gummi vitamins she was a well nourished and thriving child. So I went on boiling pasta and making countless pb & j sandwiches for lunch.


To my delight, during a month long road trip when she was about 12 years old, the Children's Menu finally got old. To my horror she now wanted to order filet mignon and other premium menu items. Not wanting to curb her enthusiasm we indulged her menu choices and encouraged her to try new things. The more she tried, the braver she became about unfamiliar ingredients-- to the point that she would give almost everything a fair chance—even foods most of us would immediately shun. Chocolate covered cuttlefish is one example of just how far she'll go.


On a recent Spring Break trip to Northern California Devon, Hayley and I had reserved a table at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in Berkeley. The entire meal was heavenly. It was clear from the moment we sat down that my daughter had become a foodie right before my very eyes. She was just as excited as we were to read the menu and ponder what to order. When the waiter presented Hayley a simple salad of spring greens dressed with a light vinaigrette her eyes lit up. One taste and I thought she might cry until I saw her satisfied smile appear and she exclaimed "this is the best salad ever!"


Anthony Bourdain lists vinaigrette as something everyone should know how to prepare. Now you too can check that one off your list.


Chez Panisse Vinaigrette - Alice Waters, The Art of Simple Food


1 tablespoon red wine vinegar


Salt


Fresh-ground black pepper


3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


Pour red wine vinegar into a small bowl.


Add the salt and pepper


Stir to dissolve the salt, taste, and adjust if needed. Use a fork or small whisk to beat in the extra-virgin olive oil, a little at a time.


Taste as you go and stope when it tastes right.


Variations:


Add a little pureed garlic or diced shallot, or both to the vinegar.


White wine vinegar, sherry vinegar or lemon juice can replace some or all of the red wine vinegar.


Beat in a little mustard before you start adding the oil.


For part of the olive oil, substitute a very fresh nut oil, such as walnut or hazelnut.


Heavy cream or creme fraiche can replace some or all of the olive oil.


Chop some fresh herbs and stir them into the finished vinaigrette.
















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