Sunday, December 4, 2011

Rolling Into (or Out of?) Middle Age


As previously mentioned, I turned 50 this summer.  With that milestone have come the inevitable physical signs of a half century of life and the need to eat a bit more consciously. But I’ve got company: My friends’ dietary habits are changing with the times too.  One pal can’t eat gluten. One’s off dairy. Some friends can eat sheep and goat cheese but not cow milk cheese.  Another friend will only eat meat if it once swam in the sea. While some of us are trying to make up for lost time, others in my circle have had healthy habits from the start. One friend hasn’t eaten anything with a face in decades and another hasn’t eaten red meat since we were in college.

Dinner parties these days are a bit challenging. It’s rare to host a gathering where someone doesn’t have some sort of restriction. Though all are gracious guests, the gracious host will try to adapt accordingly.  And, while I’m loathe to change my own eating habits I know that all these restrictions should really be my own. So, the discipline of thoughtful meal planning emerges a bit more often these days and nudges me into cuisines that are better suited to me now whether or not I want to admit it.

It’s hard to beat a Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam cheese and a hunk of salami for an appetizer but that delicious duo won’t do your cholesterol level any favors. These Vietnamese Spring Rolls will make everyone happy and they’re guilt free. One dipping sauce accommodates any vegetarians at the party and the other is fine for people on a gluten free diet. Plus, the rolls are fun to assemble and very pretty on the plate.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls with Two Dipping Sauces

Adapted from various epicurious.com recipes

It’s important to have all the ingredients prepared before beginning assembly of the rolls. Any combination of fillings works well. Feel free to omit or add filling ingredients according to what’s in your fridge. Cooked shrimp halves, julienned red bell pepper, matchstick sized pieces of cooked pork, avocado are all wonderful additions.

12 8-to-9 inch Rice Paper Rounds
4 oz. dried, thin Rice Stick Noodles (maifun
1 package Firm Tofu
Toasted Sesame Oil
Soy Sauce or Gluten Free Tamari

6-8 ounces shitake mushrooms, cleaned and stemmed
Olive Oil

One Half of an English Cucumber, seeded and cut into thin, 4 inch long spears
2 cups Mung Bean Sprouts
2 carrots peeled and shredded
2 cups Pea Sprouts (optional)

1 cup finely chopped dry roasted peanuts,

1 cup fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
1 cup small fresh basil leaves
12 small butter lettuce or red leaf lettuce leaves



Drain block of Tofu and cut in half horizontally. Lay a couple of paper towels on top of a clean dish towel. Place each piece of tofu on top of the towels. Cover the tofu with a couple more paper towels and a second dish towel. Place a heavy skillet large enough to cover the tofu on top and allow the weighted tofu to drain for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Slice the tofu into ½ inch thick strips and place on a silpat or parchment paper on top of a sheet plan.

Whisk together a tablespoon of the sesame oil and two tablespoons of soy sauce. Brush each side of the tofu sticks with the sauce.

Bake tofu for about an hour (flipping the sticks over after 30 minutes) until the sticks are firm and golden brown. Cool.

Meanwhile, heat a tablespoon or two of oil in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Cool.

Add rice sticks to a large saucepan of boiling water and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, place in bowl and toss with a tablespoon or two of rice vinegar. Cool.

Fill a wide shallow bowl or dish with warm water. Add 1 rice-paper sheet and turn until beginning to soften, about 20 seconds (sheet will still be stiff in a few spots). Remove from water; drain on linen kitchen towel.

Place a lettuce leaf across the bottom half of the rice paper round leaving a one inch border on each end. Add few mint, cilantro, and basil leaves on top. Top with a tablespoon or so of rice sticks, shaping into compact log. Top with a few bean sprouts, a cucumber spear, a couple teaspoons of shredded carrot, a tofu stick, and a couple of mushrooms. Sprinkle with some roasted peanuts. Fold bottom of each rice sheet over filling, then fold in ends and roll into tight cylinder. Place rolls, seam side down, on platter. Repeat with remaining rice paper rolls. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Cover with damp paper towel and plastic wrap; chill.) Cut each roll diagonally in half. Arrange on platter and serve with sauces.

Vietnamese Dipping Sauce
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons fermented fish sauce (nam pla)*
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon minced jalapeño chili with seeds

Whisk all ingredients in medium bowl until sugar dissolves. Let stand at least 30 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill.)

Spicy Peanut Sauce
Makes about 1 cup

3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3/4 cup water

In a small saucepan cook garlic and red pepper flakes in oil over moderate heat, stirring, until garlic is golden. Whisk in remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, whisking. Simmer sauce, whisking, until thickened, about 1 minute. Sauce may be made 3 days ahead and chilled, covered.

Serve sauce warm or at room temperature.










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